lividlili words | travel | life


Faithless in Zagreb

The blue caterpillars that are the Zagreb trams snaked past us, but we barely noticed as we walked along Ilica toward Šalata. Faithless was playing tonight and nothing else mattered. Going to see a gig in Zagreb is always an experience. It’s never quite what you expected. Šalata is a...


Back of the brewery

The back of the brewery, like the back of many things: a woman, a book, bad luck, your hand, a mirror, a door when it’s time to move on – the back of a brewery is a beautiful thing.


Reaching for the clouds

A very small boy ran past me today as I was walking to the market. “Bok!” he said over his shoulder, as his little legs propelled him forward at a cracking pace. “Bok,” I said back. A few moments later, his mother ran past, wheezing a little and holding her...


Caffe Bar Sunce

I’ve been coming to Caffe Bar Sunce for years, literally years, even before I moved to Zagreb. It is a place populated by old men who have been sent by their wives to the market, for a bag of tomatoes, potatoes, onions. It doesn’t matter what they sent them for....


The Simple Things

de simple tings of life, mi dear de simple tings of life ~ Jean ‘Binta’ Breeze Plums on the ground. The ground. Not of a supermarket, tumbled off the crate. Not on the kitchen floor, rolled out of the bag, across the counter, fallen from the bench. Just on the...


Apartment living in Croatia

I’ve lived in apartments before, but there’s something about apartment living in Croatia that has its own special joys. During the winter, everyone’s blinds were shut and so we rarely saw into our neighbours’ windows. The blinds keep the heating in, I suppose. We kept our own blinds mostly open,...


Did not finish – reading by numbers

Adding a book to the ‘did not finish’ pile always feels like a failure. On whose part, I don’t know – the reader and the writer are sometimes equally to blame. There are plenty of (probably) truly excellent books that I just haven’t been able to finish, and loads of...


Italian pickpockets

I don’t want to jinx myself, but I’ve felt relatively safe in Venice these past few days. It’s the crowds that make you nervous though, and you can’t help clutching your bag closer when you’re in the push and shove of the human mill race. This morning as I walked...


Zagreb Pride

I’ve been to a few European prides over the past two years and what I love about them is that they’re way more basic than the super extravagant Sydney Mardi Gras. Mardi Gras has its place, and I love it. But you couldn’t get more grass roots, basic, and authentic...


Reading in the Park

Most visitors to Croatia come for the summer and head straight to the coast. Sometimes, I think they might be bypassing the best that Croatia has to offer – because there’s no doubt about it, when the sun is shining the whole of Zagreb comes out to play. It seems...