Tagged: Zagreb

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Pahuljica / People

Sometimes, people are like snowflakes. You walk through a city, through crowded streets, rubbing up against people, constant skin on skin, sleeve on sleeve, and you never feel so distant, so alone. All those people merge together and turn into one blinding homogeneous pile of slush. But individually they can...

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Surviving the Cold

We had quite the beautiful long hot gorgeous sun-filled summer and I really can’t complain about it. But I can complain about the winter. And I will. We’re two Australian women living in Croatia. Up until recently, we didn’t know how to operate a central-heating system. Actually, I don’t even...

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Sushi, Sake & Snow in Zagreb

We went out to the advent markets for sushi tonight. We drank Asahi and it snowed! There was a girl at the sushi bar who was very unimpressed that it was snowing. We told her that in Australia it snows for five minutes on one day every year and then...

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Protiv!

On 1 December, Croatia will vote whether or not to change its constitution to ensure that marriage is only ever defined as a union between a man and a woman, putting it in the illustrious company of Belarus, Bulgaria and Ukraine. The referendum is costing 43 million Kuna (about 5.6...

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Medved Hike

We scored an absolutely gorgeous weekend of sunshine and blue skies last week. But we know the weather is going to turn against us soon so on Sunday we packed up our cracker hangovers and climbed up Zagreb’s mountain, Medvednica. We opted to take bus 102 from Britanski Trg to...

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Drinking and Eating Sand

It will surprise no one when I say that I don’t like kids. Really, I don’t. Oh I know, kids are blah blah blah blah. NO. So it may surprise many people to discover that our favourite bar here in Zagreb is in a kids playground. Let’s parse that sentence....

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The Boiler Room

We had a visit from a chimney sweep yesterday. A fucking chimney sweep! But we may have inadvertently caused ourselves some bad luck… After a couple of abortive attempts to enter our apartment – “I’m sorry, I only speak English,” I lied to the man who buzzed our intercom –...

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Klapa along

A few weeks ago, I went to see a performance of klapa at the Croatian Museum of Natural History. I’m not sure what I was expecting – maybe a Capella sung from within the ribcage of a long dead brachiosaurus? A choir of stuffed dodos? Getting down and dirty with...

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The bells, the bells

We can’t avoid this, Zagreb. We have to talk about the bells, the obsession with bells. It is not a mild obsession; kicking off at 6 in the morning they continue on til 10 at night. Usually, they are regular and seem to follow a schedule, but then there are...

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A very Scottish welcome

Last week, Zagreb hosted Scotland in the World Cup qualifiers. Not being an avid football fan, my first indication that this important match was impending was when I collided with several men wearing tartans in Ban Jelačić Square. Not really what you’d call an everyday occurrence here in Zagreb. An...