Category: Travels


Well, do you?

If you take my place… … do you also want my disability? Spotted in Cres. The original reads: “Ako ste uzeli moje mjesto hocete li i moj invaliditet?”


A Milanese shopping trip

Most visitors to Milan might find themselves 500 Euro out of pocket for a Louis Vuitton purse, Prada shoes or Gucci dress. But on a recent shopping trip to the fashion capital we splashed out on true luxury items – soy sauce, sesame oil, curry paste and capers. The difference...

NIN in Italy 0

NIN in Italy

The number one reason you want to live in Europe is for the easy access to awesome gigs, AMIRIGHT? In the space of a few short months I’ve seen Steven Wilson, Depeche Mode, Bloc Party and Nine Inch Nails – and a few more planned shows for the rest of...


Klapa along

A few weeks ago, I went to see a performance of klapa at the Croatian Museum of Natural History. I’m not sure what I was expecting – maybe a Capella sung from within the ribcage of a long dead brachiosaurus? A choir of stuffed dodos? Getting down and dirty with...


The bells, the bells

We can’t avoid this, Zagreb. We have to talk about the bells, the obsession with bells. It is not a mild obsession; kicking off at 6 in the morning they continue on til 10 at night. Usually, they are regular and seem to follow a schedule, but then there are...


A very Scottish welcome

Last week, Zagreb hosted Scotland in the World Cup qualifiers. Not being an avid football fan, my first indication that this important match was impending was when I collided with several men wearing tartans in Ban Jelačić Square. Not really what you’d call an everyday occurrence here in Zagreb. An...

Homo-memorials 0


Being in Europe brings home certain uncomfortable things – like how close war and despair can be. War here is such a scar on the landscape that it is difficult to ignore it. I’ve been in other places where it’s more painfully evident – Kosovo, Mostar, parts of Vietnam –...

Wonder Washing 0

Wonder Washing!

Do you ever watch old movies or ones set in Sicily and there are clothes lines strung up between people’s apartments, clothes lines on little pulleys so that you can put your clothes out and pull them back in? Yeah? Well, I have one of those. I can’t admit to...

The sounds 0

The sounds

Normally the first thing I unpack when I move into a new place – or the first thing I buy, if it’s a new country – is a stereo. A house without music is not a home. “Silence, something about silence makes me sick.” But so far we haven’t got...

Episode II : A New City 0

Episode II : A New City

I’m sitting at a desk in the attic of a building in central Zagreb. The rain is pouring down the windows and dripping off the satellite dishes outside. A crane has stopped working for the day on the half-finished building opposite. As the thunder rolls, I’m a little bit afraid...